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April 23, 2025
With the passing of Pope Francis this week, I was reminded of a photo that's hung in my parents' house for over 60 years.
It was taken in Rome in June 1963, just after the death of Pope John XXIII.
My family was stationed in Rome from 1960-1963 while my dad served as a foreign service officer ?? at the US Embassy.
It is a photo of Lyndon Baines Johnson (LBJ) - who was Vice President at the time - saying hello to my brother Mike while my mother is standing to LBJ's right holding my sister Mary and I am standing behind my brother looking up at LBJ.
For most of my life, it was just "that picture" on the wall-background decor, like a family heirloom that nobody really talks about.
But a few years ago, I decided to figure out when and where it was actually taken.
Google turned up nothing.
I found references to LBJ's trips to Rome as President, but nothing from his time as VP.
Even AI wasn't helpful.
So what do you do when the internet lets you down?
Well, I decided to reach out to the Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum to see if they could shed some light on when the picture was taken.
I sent them a message via their website and included a copy of the picture.
The next day they contacted me and said that someone in the Archives Staff would be getting back to me.
A few days later I received a response saying that LBJ had visited Rome two times during his Vice Presidency - once in September of 1962 and then again in June of 1963 when he headed up the US Delegation to the funeral of Pope John XXII who died on June 3, 1963.
According to the LBJ Library, that delegation arrived in Rome late in the evening on Sunday June 16, 1963.
So, that meant this picture was likely taken the following day on June 17th - LBJ's only full day in Rome on that trip.
As for where it was taken?
The archivist couldn't say for sure, but thought it was probably snapped while LBJ walked back to his hotel (the Cavalieri Hilton) after a shopping trip.
She also provided me with additional details about the trip that were recorded in LBJs daily diary, compiled by his staff.
According to that diary, here is how LBJ spent his approximately 36 hours in Rome between June 16-18.
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Sunday June 16, 1963
- Flies to Rome via USAF, arriving at Cavalieri Hilton at 10:05 p.m.
Monday June 17, 1963
- Attends 10 a.m. Solemn Requiem Mass at St. Peter's in memory of Pope John XXIII.
- LBJ and U.S. Delegation meet with College of Cardinals at Apostolic Palace.
- Lunch at hotel w/Bill and Mavis Heath, Mr. & Mrs. Jimmie Duke, Valentis, Dr. Hurst, Betty Chapowicki, MF.
- Tailor fitting, rub and nap after lunch.
- 4:30 p.m. briefing by Sam Gammon on visit to President Segni.
- Buys 4 paintings in Control Room.
- Calls on Pres. Segni at Quirinale Palace.
- Shops afterward (buys rubber raft boat for Ann Jenkins) and has drinks in hotel suite w/Valentis, Mrs. Reagan, Mary McGrory.
- Calls ailing Amb. Reinhardt to wish him well, has rub in room
- Dinner in roof garden w/Valentis, Dr. Hurst, Betty Chapowicki, Paul Glynn, MF.Tuesday June 18, 1963
- Departure ceremonies at airport around 9 a.m.
- Flies to Washington; stops at Shannon, Ireland for refueling.
- Arrives Washington at 3:20 p.m. Meets w/Capt. Cannon, Dr. Travell, Dr. Hurst.
- To Nancy Dickerson's residence for cocktails w/CTJ, Valentis.
- Stops at The Elms and Bethesda Naval Hospital (to Rm. 455 w/Capt. G.J. Essweign and Capt. Brown) before returning to The Elms for the night.----------------------------------
From these diary entries a few things are clear to me about LBJ as vice president:
- - He liked taking naps and getting a rub down.
- - He liked to shop when traveling - not sure Rome was the best place to buy a "rubber raft boat for Ann Jenkins".
- - He liked having drinks with friends - especially the Valentis (Jack Valenti would later become Special Assistant to the President).It's funny the things you learn just by asking questions-and how a forgotten photo can suddenly become a living piece of history.
If you're into Presidential history, I highly recommend checking out the LBJ Library or any of the Presidential Libraries.
They're full of surprises.